Monday, August 3, 2009
Sunday August 2nd
Today was Sunday, so the original plan was to have the day off. Since we had a very low turnout for our community meetings at Malimbe, however, we decided to go back for a second try today. Unfortunately when we arrived only the ECD coordinator was around. Four village chiefs and several women eventually arrived, but in the meantime they told us to wander around the village and take pictures of interesting things. Such interesting things included a couple of child driven ox-drawn carts, a huge potbelly pig, some little girls who wanted to hold our hands and some ladies carrying things on their heads who wanted their pictures taken.
When we came back, enough people had congregated that we could have the meeting. This was the 6th meeting and pretty much ran exactly the same way as the others. The only question asked was “when will the consent forms be given.”
As Charles put it, one of the chiefs finally admitted that the reason there were still very few attendees was that there was another funeral, complete with Gule Wamkulu. One of the running jokes in our group is that I am dying to see some Gule Wamkulu. It’s true, I’m fascinated. So, when they said that our audience was all at this funeral, I jokingly suggested that we take the meeting there instead. No problem, they said, we would just ride by on our way home.
Halfway toward the funeral village, Alton made a couple of phone calls. Before we knew it we had a full chief escort. At the village, the headman for 22 villages greeted us and introduced us to a lot of other chiefs. He also told us that we were welcome to take any photos or videos that we wanted (apparently that was really special!!!). The chiefs were all very thankful for the research project, as was a hopeful candidate for Malawian parliament. They insisted that we wait for the cemetery procession inside a house (where a distressed chicken was squealing under Tiane’s chair). We joined a group of hundreds of people in parading around two graves, one for the mother of the one we were grieving, and one for the one the ceremony was for. Interestingly, they were buried in 2007 and 2006. The ladies were all crying hysterically (as were their babies). So, it was not really a funeral, but a memorial service. Next it was time for lunch. We bought some chips (potato wedges) and fanta. The chiefs wanted to feed us nsima, but decided it was too cold to serve to visitors and brought us more chips and fanta.
By the time the big dance started, we had been at the funeral for a few hours. The big dance finally started with a few drummers and ladies dancing. Charles suggested that we go up and put 50 kwacha in the plates in front of the ladies and dance with them for a bit. So, we decided what the heck, so what if we look ridiculous? And we danced….. the crowd roared with laughter. They were cracking up. We made 25 kwacha each from amused onlookers. Later the volunteers told us that the crowd consensus was that Tiane was a much better dancer than me, but that by the end I was getting better. They said the laughter was not because we were terrible, but because the people had never seen azungu dance (I’m pretty sure it was both).
The most exciting part was the bike ride home. I am very happy I lived through it. We left at 4:45, just as the sun was beginning to set and were trying to get back to KASO before dark. So…..we biked as fast as we could through a mass crowd of people leaving the ceremony and over some really treacherous trails. I wish I had a picture, but it was all I could do to maintain control of my bike. I screamed a lot. It felt like driving a car on a video game when you’re trying to avoid all kinds of impossible obstacles, sand traps, people, hills, bumps, rocks, boulders, mud, holes…. but end up hitting most of them. My heart is still racing.
Made it to KASO exactly at dusk and back to the lodge at 6:00, just when the Japanese man next door said he would take us to Don Brioni’s for Italian.
When we came back, enough people had congregated that we could have the meeting. This was the 6th meeting and pretty much ran exactly the same way as the others. The only question asked was “when will the consent forms be given.”
As Charles put it, one of the chiefs finally admitted that the reason there were still very few attendees was that there was another funeral, complete with Gule Wamkulu. One of the running jokes in our group is that I am dying to see some Gule Wamkulu. It’s true, I’m fascinated. So, when they said that our audience was all at this funeral, I jokingly suggested that we take the meeting there instead. No problem, they said, we would just ride by on our way home.
Halfway toward the funeral village, Alton made a couple of phone calls. Before we knew it we had a full chief escort. At the village, the headman for 22 villages greeted us and introduced us to a lot of other chiefs. He also told us that we were welcome to take any photos or videos that we wanted (apparently that was really special!!!). The chiefs were all very thankful for the research project, as was a hopeful candidate for Malawian parliament. They insisted that we wait for the cemetery procession inside a house (where a distressed chicken was squealing under Tiane’s chair). We joined a group of hundreds of people in parading around two graves, one for the mother of the one we were grieving, and one for the one the ceremony was for. Interestingly, they were buried in 2007 and 2006. The ladies were all crying hysterically (as were their babies). So, it was not really a funeral, but a memorial service. Next it was time for lunch. We bought some chips (potato wedges) and fanta. The chiefs wanted to feed us nsima, but decided it was too cold to serve to visitors and brought us more chips and fanta.
By the time the big dance started, we had been at the funeral for a few hours. The big dance finally started with a few drummers and ladies dancing. Charles suggested that we go up and put 50 kwacha in the plates in front of the ladies and dance with them for a bit. So, we decided what the heck, so what if we look ridiculous? And we danced….. the crowd roared with laughter. They were cracking up. We made 25 kwacha each from amused onlookers. Later the volunteers told us that the crowd consensus was that Tiane was a much better dancer than me, but that by the end I was getting better. They said the laughter was not because we were terrible, but because the people had never seen azungu dance (I’m pretty sure it was both).
The most exciting part was the bike ride home. I am very happy I lived through it. We left at 4:45, just as the sun was beginning to set and were trying to get back to KASO before dark. So…..we biked as fast as we could through a mass crowd of people leaving the ceremony and over some really treacherous trails. I wish I had a picture, but it was all I could do to maintain control of my bike. I screamed a lot. It felt like driving a car on a video game when you’re trying to avoid all kinds of impossible obstacles, sand traps, people, hills, bumps, rocks, boulders, mud, holes…. but end up hitting most of them. My heart is still racing.
Made it to KASO exactly at dusk and back to the lodge at 6:00, just when the Japanese man next door said he would take us to Don Brioni’s for Italian.
Sunday, August 2, 2009
Saturday August 1st
Today made me dizzy. It was children’s corner again, a program during which kids from ages 2-18 come to each of KASO’s five centers for developmental activities, socialization and a nutritious meal. Last week, we basically wandered around in awe of the program and the multitude of children in attendance, joining in to learn traditional dances or to play house with ECD as we felt compelled. This week, though, the volunteers had been really anxious for us to prepare some programs for the kids. Despite a full resume of babysitting, daycare, and youth group leadership experience, I found the task utterly overwhelming. Although I admittedly forced my result on the Meyer’s Briggs during my first leadership class as an undergrad (striking what I saw to be the perfect balance between being an introvert and an introvert, not I, not E, but X), I am an introvert (that just means I re-energize by being alone). Just being surrounded by a couple of hundred small children is totally overwhelming; add to the sheer volume of kids a set of language and cultural barriers and I am completely dumbfounded with what to do with them. Since April, I’ve been working on informed consent documents, IRB proposals and questionnaires, hence the task of entertaining dozens and dozens of kids was way out of my comfort zone.
Tiane and Tutu had brought along some glow in the dark string and beads, so we decided an easy project would be bracelet making. The kids loved it, but it was one of the most stressful things I’ve done since getting here, trying to hand out string and beads to that many kids. Then there were seemingly endless lines of late arrivals…kids dropping their bracelets…etc.
We taught two more activities, the human knot for ages 13-18 and duck duck goose for ECD. The human knot activity came after Charles (lead researcher for KASO) led a discussion and game on how HIV and AIDS affects poverty. During the game, the kids all took off a shoe and set it in front of them as a “parent.” Then, they ran around in a circle while “AIDS” killed some of the “parents.” Charles would yell “nsima!” (the staple food) and each kid would have to find their own or another parent (if theirs had died). The game was supposed to demonstrate how quickly the death of a few parents can lead to extreme economic burden on communities.
Anyway, the human knot went fairly well. There were so many teenagers that we had to do 4 separate groups, but at least 2 of them where able to complete the untangling. Duck duck goose was entertaining. I tried to ask Maria how to say goose in Chichewa, but she didn’t know what I was talking about. I had learned the words for chicken and duck, so we played chicken chicken duck instead. Nkhuku, nkhuku, bakha. My favorite part was that when we told the kids that if they got tagged they had to sit in the stew pot they sat in the middle stirring stirring stirring until the next kid took over.
In preparation for next week, any ideas of games or activities for kids ages 2-5, 7-12, or 13-18 that involve no props or resources, include dozens of kids and can be done in a small space would be much appreciated!
We’ve been spending a lot of time at the local markets, buying fresh veggies (ones that we cook for a looooong time), fruits (only ones w/ thick peels!) and rice. Today I also got some kernels for popcorn. Esau (our driver) asked if I had something that started with a W. I told him I had no idea what he was talking about. So, he pulled me back into a little shop and asked for this something that started with a W. The clerk laughed and brought out a large round woven plate. Esau dumped my kernels onto the round plate and tossed them around. Corn husk debris flew. It was a pretty efficient way of cleaning the kernels! Unfortunately when we poured the kernels back into the bag there was a hole, so half of them spilled on the floor.
Tiane and Tutu had brought along some glow in the dark string and beads, so we decided an easy project would be bracelet making. The kids loved it, but it was one of the most stressful things I’ve done since getting here, trying to hand out string and beads to that many kids. Then there were seemingly endless lines of late arrivals…kids dropping their bracelets…etc.
We taught two more activities, the human knot for ages 13-18 and duck duck goose for ECD. The human knot activity came after Charles (lead researcher for KASO) led a discussion and game on how HIV and AIDS affects poverty. During the game, the kids all took off a shoe and set it in front of them as a “parent.” Then, they ran around in a circle while “AIDS” killed some of the “parents.” Charles would yell “nsima!” (the staple food) and each kid would have to find their own or another parent (if theirs had died). The game was supposed to demonstrate how quickly the death of a few parents can lead to extreme economic burden on communities.
Anyway, the human knot went fairly well. There were so many teenagers that we had to do 4 separate groups, but at least 2 of them where able to complete the untangling. Duck duck goose was entertaining. I tried to ask Maria how to say goose in Chichewa, but she didn’t know what I was talking about. I had learned the words for chicken and duck, so we played chicken chicken duck instead. Nkhuku, nkhuku, bakha. My favorite part was that when we told the kids that if they got tagged they had to sit in the stew pot they sat in the middle stirring stirring stirring until the next kid took over.
In preparation for next week, any ideas of games or activities for kids ages 2-5, 7-12, or 13-18 that involve no props or resources, include dozens of kids and can be done in a small space would be much appreciated!
We’ve been spending a lot of time at the local markets, buying fresh veggies (ones that we cook for a looooong time), fruits (only ones w/ thick peels!) and rice. Today I also got some kernels for popcorn. Esau (our driver) asked if I had something that started with a W. I told him I had no idea what he was talking about. So, he pulled me back into a little shop and asked for this something that started with a W. The clerk laughed and brought out a large round woven plate. Esau dumped my kernels onto the round plate and tossed them around. Corn husk debris flew. It was a pretty efficient way of cleaning the kernels! Unfortunately when we poured the kernels back into the bag there was a hole, so half of them spilled on the floor.
Friday July 31st
Yesterday we had a great turnout for our last community meeting. Since a number of KASO volunteers live in Fumbe, the community was eagerly anticipating our arrival. Three village chiefs and a village headman (overseeing a number of villages) as well as many men and women were in attendance. As usual, the KASO team did a fantastic job of covering everything we had discussed –purpose of the study, voluntariness, and confidentiality- (Maria translated as the presentations were made in Chichewa). One aspect of the familiarization meetings that has fascinated me is the genuine interest of the volunteers to make sure that the people truly understand the project. Prior to beginning the community meetings, we had long discussions about presentation. One concern I raised was that people might be afraid of the word “research” and that we might want to use softer language- like “program” or “project” to convey what we were doing. However, the volunteers instead wanted the people to learn that research is not something scary, but something helpful to their community. So, they have taken a lot of time to explain not only what our project is, but to define “research,” dispelling myths that all research involves needles or “blood sucking.” It seems to have gone over really well.
My favorite question yesterday was, “what if a woman is very willing for her child to be researched, but has no child between the ages of 2 and 5, will you still allow her to be included in the research?” Charles answered the question by posing a question back, “If a boy wants to be a part of Gule Wamkulu (big dance), but has not yet reached the age of initiation, can he participate?” He continued with an explanation of why we can only look at kids between 2 and 5, but the comparison worked perfectly. Even in our research group discussions, the answers to many questions begin with “in Malawi, we have a saying….” Such as “you may go to the lake to see the lake, but you may find a hippo.”
I’ve learned tons more in the last week and a half than I did the entire time I was here before. Some of it is cultural, like the way that Malawians cup their hands when clapping for a chief. I am also learning from the way things have changed at KASO over the past few years. As an undergraduate I wrote a paper about the influence of the community mindset (found in most non-western societies in which people think of themselves as a part of a whole, as opposed to the individualistic American mindset in which people think of themselves as the whole) on the HIV/AIDS epidemic. Having heard such sayings as “HIV is in the nsima” I thought that it would be very difficult, once HIV had invaded a community, for individuals to formulate personal health beliefs that allow for the projection of outcomes that are separate from the health of the community as a whole (ie: that even though some neighbors or family members might be infected, they could prevent HIV).
I am very happy to say that I have changed my mind. The people we are working with believe that, as a community, they can stop the spread of HIV. There is a sense of empowerment in these communities that I did not see three years ago. One of the most obvious differences is the number of people who are on ARVs. In 2006, I participated primarily in home based care for people who were so sick that they were home-bound. Now, the number of people who are seriously ill has dropped dramatically. So, people are hopeful rather than helpless. Interestingly, I have heard people argue that access to free ARVs will dampen prevention efforts because people will no longer see HIV as a killer. On the contrary, I see access to these drugs as giving communities a degree of much needed control over the epidemic. Where once HIV was a death sentence, the realization that the virus can be, to some extent, tamed, is allowing for more open dialogue and the perception that health outcomes can also be changed. Of course, this is just my small take on an epidemic that is ravaging a huge proportion of the continent…but I find these to be hopeful signs.
My favorite question yesterday was, “what if a woman is very willing for her child to be researched, but has no child between the ages of 2 and 5, will you still allow her to be included in the research?” Charles answered the question by posing a question back, “If a boy wants to be a part of Gule Wamkulu (big dance), but has not yet reached the age of initiation, can he participate?” He continued with an explanation of why we can only look at kids between 2 and 5, but the comparison worked perfectly. Even in our research group discussions, the answers to many questions begin with “in Malawi, we have a saying….” Such as “you may go to the lake to see the lake, but you may find a hippo.”
I’ve learned tons more in the last week and a half than I did the entire time I was here before. Some of it is cultural, like the way that Malawians cup their hands when clapping for a chief. I am also learning from the way things have changed at KASO over the past few years. As an undergraduate I wrote a paper about the influence of the community mindset (found in most non-western societies in which people think of themselves as a part of a whole, as opposed to the individualistic American mindset in which people think of themselves as the whole) on the HIV/AIDS epidemic. Having heard such sayings as “HIV is in the nsima” I thought that it would be very difficult, once HIV had invaded a community, for individuals to formulate personal health beliefs that allow for the projection of outcomes that are separate from the health of the community as a whole (ie: that even though some neighbors or family members might be infected, they could prevent HIV).
I am very happy to say that I have changed my mind. The people we are working with believe that, as a community, they can stop the spread of HIV. There is a sense of empowerment in these communities that I did not see three years ago. One of the most obvious differences is the number of people who are on ARVs. In 2006, I participated primarily in home based care for people who were so sick that they were home-bound. Now, the number of people who are seriously ill has dropped dramatically. So, people are hopeful rather than helpless. Interestingly, I have heard people argue that access to free ARVs will dampen prevention efforts because people will no longer see HIV as a killer. On the contrary, I see access to these drugs as giving communities a degree of much needed control over the epidemic. Where once HIV was a death sentence, the realization that the virus can be, to some extent, tamed, is allowing for more open dialogue and the perception that health outcomes can also be changed. Of course, this is just my small take on an epidemic that is ravaging a huge proportion of the continent…but I find these to be hopeful signs.
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